This is a documentary following the life and exploits of surfer George Greenough and pals. Filmed in the 70's, it documents everything from his surfing philosophy to how he shapes surfboards and even how to build your own yacht.
This film is as far from a modern surfing film as you can possibly get - and depicts a far more lifestyle based image of surfing rather than the sport based image which has become more apparent.
Parts of the film are visually stunning - some of the footage is filmed by George and he was the first person to be able to film the inside the tube. This coupled with some amazing sunsets and light beams coming through the tubes makes for some brilliant psychedelic action. This builds up to a 20 minute finale set to Pink Floyd track 'Echoes'. Its an audio visual treat. Other music in the film is slightly more dubious - but fits well with the whole 70's feel.
I have always really enjoyed this film, and it inspired me to get on the water myself. Ok so its dated and quirky, but I think thats half the appeal!
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You might be in there for only a few seconds - in real time - but in your head it goes on ... more
for hours. It is an experience that's hard to describe, riding inside of a big, grinding wave. Often you're riding so deep inside the tube, you don't make it out....